The word oyster is used as a common name for a number of
distinct groups of bivalve mollusks which live in marine or brackish habitats. Briny,
buttery, sweet, metallic, with notes of cucumber or seaweed; an oyster is
nothing if not a pure recollection of the water from which it comes. Freshly
shucked and eaten straight from its shell, no other food is so true to its
origin which is probably why oysters are one of Dom’s and my favorite
indulgences. Served on the half shell over ice with a drop of Tabasco or a dribble
Mignonette sauce, fewer dishes are simpler or more satiating.For centuries, oysters have been considered an aphrodisiac. Researchers have found that there may be some truth to this notion. Oysters are rich in all 9 amino acids that trigger increased levels of sex hormones and that their high zinc content aids in the production of testosterone. Oysters are also an excellent source of protein, zinc, iron, calcium, selenium as well as Vitamin A, Vitamin B12 and omega-3 fatty acids. Oysters are low in calories and are considered to be most nutritious when eaten raw.
It was once assumed that oysters were only safe to eat in months whose names contained the letter ‘r’ because oysters were much more likely to spoil in May, June, July, and August. The ‘R’ rule goes all the way back to the 1700s (or earlier) when reliable refrigeration was not available. This is no longer an issue considering advances in coolants and shipping.
However, shellfish consumption in summer months can still be
problematic. Because oysters are filter feeders they are affected by blooms of
algae (known as red tides) that collect along coastlines, usually in warm
weather. This alga spreads toxins that are soaked up by oysters, clams and
mussels.
Oysters continue to top the list of foods high in risk for
Listeria contamination for pregnant women, children and the elderly, yet there
is a far greater risk of exposure of this bacterial infection from eating raw
fruits and vegetables, soft serve ice cream and sliced deli meats.
Lastly, most shellfish spawn in the summer. As any oyster
aficionado knows, a fertile oyster turns unpleasantly thin, milky and soft which
is far from ideal for eating. While oysters can be genetically modified so they
do not spawn, many vendors simply avoid this problem by importing their shellfish
from cooler climates.
However, most oysters sold in restaurants and markets are
commercially harvested and are subject to regulations intended to prevent such
threats. Oysters which are commercially harvested are no more likely to be
toxic in summer months than any other month.
- ¼ cup red wine vinegar
- 1 tablespoon shallots or sweet onions, finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon white or black pepper (or more to taste)
- Salt to taste
Mix all ingredients together in a small serving bowl. That’s it. The sauce does improve if you let the shallots macerate in the vinegar for a bit before using. Hard to believe there is such a fancy name for something so easy to make, eh? The French term "mignonette" originally referred to a bouquet garni of peppercorns, cloves, and spices used to flavor dishes, but now it simply means cracked pepper. Though different mignonette sauces use different types of vinegar, all contain pepper.