We Like to Cook!

This is by far the most intimidating post that I have written to date because it is the most anticipated recipe by those who have sampled these transcendent indulgences. Capturing the precise nuances of the process has not been an easy endeavor. For 10 years, Dom has been perfecting his recipe and techniques for preparing fiori di zucca ripieni di formaggio. These mozzarella-and-anchovy-stuffed squash blossoms are our summer addiction. In fact, for the last three years we have planted 15-20 zucchini plants solely to harvest the blossoms with the actual zucchini squash crop as an added bonus.

Prior to transforming our backyard into a large garden plot, we would head to the Morningside Farmer’s Market during the pre-dawn hours on Saturdays to stand at the head of the line to fuel our squash blossom habit for the week. As it happens, one of these mornings Dom was asked by a fellow customer what he was planning to purchase, fully expecting that like everyone else in line, his response would be “Oh, the heirloom tomatoes, of course.” So when he answered, “squash blossoms,” he was met with an avalanche of chatter with one woman telling the line of customers within earshot that “there was a guy who painstakingly stuffed each blossom with cheese and sardines and then dipped them in a magic mixture to fry them.” The woman then turned to Dom and asked him what he was going to do with HIS blossoms, to which he replied, “Umm, I’m the ‘guy.’ And, they are stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, not sardines,” at which point he stepped up to purchase every blossom in sight before walking home.

There are several secrets to making the fragile, radiantly-orange flowers into an other-worldly delicacy. The first trick is to harvest the male blossoms as soon after they open as humanly possible. Another is to remove the pollen-dusted stamen before stuffing the blossom. This is easiest to do when they are first picked. The blossoms should be immediately refrigerated because they begin to wilt very rapidly. If you will not be using the blossoms the same evening, consider stuffing them and placing them back in the refrigerator for the next day. Fresh blossoms seldom last more than two days.

1 1-lb. package of mozzarella cheese, whole-milk or part-skim
1 small can anchovies packed in oil
Tempura elixir (Below)
Oil for frying

To stuff the blossoms, cut the mozzarella into rectangular pieces (like Jenga blocks) that are about ¼-inch thick and roughly the same approximate length as the blossoms. Fresh mozzarella is not recommended for this recipe because the moisture level is too high.

Next, cut one or two of the anchovy fillets in half lengthwise and again into thirds or fourths. Place one of the anchovy slivers on the end of each block of cheese and place anchovy-side-down into each zucchini flower. Many people simply ignore the anchovy, however, they add a salty, earthy note that enhances the subtle squashy flavor of the blossoms. If you have anchovy-averse diners, make sure you designate the anchovy-free flowers from the anchovy-full ones as they are impossible to differentiate after frying. We suggest a toothpick in the stem, but this hasn't always been foolproof as the toothpick sometimes comes out during frying. (If you come up with a good suggestion, PLEASE include in the comments so we can benefit from your expertise!)

The blossoms can be stuffed in advance. Arrange in a single layer on a plate, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

Dom’s Magic Tempura Elixir
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 ½ cups VERY cold seltzer water

To make tempura mix, combine flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt in a mixing bowl. Whisk the dry ingredients together then stream in one cup of cold seltzer water and whisk lightly just to mix. You can use still water if seltzer is not available. The critical thing is that the water be COLD.

At this point check the consistency, it should be relatively thick like waffle batter (not as thick as cookie dough.) It is better for the batter to be thicker at this point because you may need to add some ice later that will thin the batter some. Use the remaining water to adjust the consistency as needed. Set the bowl of batter in the refrigerator or over a bowl of ice and let sit for 10 minutes or so.

While the batter rests, preheat a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and heat until tiny wisps of smoke start to appear on the surface. Because olive oil has a very low smoking point, Dom uses a mixture of olive oil and canola oil. The olive imparts a nice flavor while the canola oil has a higher smoking point which gives the battered blossoms a less greasy, extremely crispy coating.

To batter the blossoms, remove the batter from the fridge and give it a good stir. Add a couple of ice cubes to ensure it is hyper-cold. Gently submerge a blossom in the batter and drag it through from stem to petal allowing any excess to drip back into the bowl. Using the same dragging motion, lay the battered blossom in the heated oil. Repeat this process laying battered blossoms at least an inch apart in the oil.

Keep an eye on the first blossom, occasionally peaking underneath with a pair of chopsticks, and turn when the cooked side is light brown; 2-3 minutes and cook until the bottom is light brown; another 2-3 minutes. Do this for each of the remaining blossoms.

Once cooked, drain blossoms on paper towels and sprinkle lightly with kosher or sea salt. (Dom actually dusts them with superfine popcorn salt.) Serve the ultra-crisp flowers piping hot as they tend to get soggy if they get too cool and do not reheat well; (this is an understatement). A chilled glass of crisp Chardonnay, Prosecco or even champagne is the perfect accompaniment.

This post was originally written for inclusion on the Virginia-Highland Civic Association website on June 14, 2013:

Given all that our fathers have endured over the years; endless games of catch, Christmas Eves spent assembling a variety of gifts (with instructions in German), forced politeness toward dates with odd hairdos, and teaching us how to parallel park, Dad clearly deserves royal treatment. So on his day, let's give him what he really wants: the chance to relax, have fun and, to top it all off, enjoy a big juicy steak that he has grilled to his exact preference.

So what better Father’s Day gift than grilling tools or even better a new grill. And, what better place to shop for grills and accessories than our neighborhood Intown Hardware? With a selection of Weber grills and grilling equipment, there is something for every Dad. Intown Ace Hardware also carries the full line of Big Green Egg cookers and accessories. Resident grillmaster, Phillip Ramsey, is a proponent of the Big Green Egg for its versatility; “You can cook almost anything on an Egg. You have the ability to control the temperature far better than any other grill on the market.” An added benefit to cooking on a Big Green Egg is that you don’t heat up your kitchen on a hot summer day. His favorite example of the Egg’s flexibility is a grilled chocolate pecan pie:


1 cup dark corn syrup
3 large eggs, beaten
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
¼ cup bourbon
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1 cup chopped pecans
1 (9-inch) pie shell

Set the Egg for indirect cooking with the Plate Setter, legs down. Preheat the BGE to 400°F.

Using a wooden spoon, mix the com syrup, eggs, butter, brown sugar, bourbon, and flour in a medium bowl until combined. Add the chocolate and pecans and blend well. Pour the filling into the pie shell.

Place the pie plate on the Plate Setter. Close the lid of the BGE and bake for 45 minutes, or until the filling is set and the pie is golden brown. Remove the pecan pie from the grill and let cool completely, and then refrigerate.


Don’t have a Big Green Egg? Don’t despair! You can bake the pie in a traditional oven for your Dad or you can try pecan hand-pies that can be cooked on a traditional grill.

For tips on selecting the perfect grilling equipment for Dad, head over to Intown Hardware and chat with Phillip or  visit the Ace Hardware’s online Guide to Grills and Outdoor Cooking.

We enjoy word games. Puns, rhymes, limericks even spelling contests; we love them all. So this recipe represented a challenge for us. We had a lengthy debate about what the resulting fruit conglomeration should be labeled. Is it a conserve or compote? What is the difference between jam and preserves? Is it fruit butter? How about marmalade?

So here goes:

• Conserves are made by cooking dried fruits and nut and have a very thick and chunky texture. Conserves work very well as a spread and as a condiment for meats and cheeses.
  
• A compote is made with whole fruit cooked in water with sugar and spices. The syrup may be seasoned with vanilla, lemon or orange peel, cinnamon sticks or powder, cloves, ground almonds, grated coconut, candied fruit, or raisins.
  
• Jam is a thick mixture of fruit, pectin, and sugar boiled gently until the fruit is soft. Recognizable pieces of fruit are still visible in the mixture. Jam can be spread easily and makes a good filling for cakes and donuts.
  
• Fruit butter is a smooth and creamy spread that is created by slow-cooking fruit and sugar until it reaches the right consistency; these types of spreads are not always translucent and are often opaque. Fruit butters are best used as a spread and a filling. A jam that has been pureed to be ultra-smooth could qualify as a fruit butter.
  
• Preserves are a cross between jelly and jam. Preserves have visible chunks of fruit surrounded by jelly, but are not as thick and opaque as jam.
  
• Marmalade is a citrus spread made from the peel and pulp of the fruit. Marmalades are cooked for a long time and have no pectin, and are used as spreads and glazes.

So what is the answer? The sweet fruity goodness would not be considered a conserve because the rhubarb is fresh not dried. It is definitely not a jam or preserve because no pectin is used in cooking, and it is not marmalade because while rhubarb is very tart and acidic, it is a rhizome and does not come from a citrus tree. So the verdict is compote or fruit butter, and since the mixture is smoother than the definition of the word compote connotes, we are officially calling it: Roasted Rhubarb Butter.


2 pounds rhubarb, trimmed, chopped into ½-inch pieces
1 cup brown sugar
Zest of one lemon
Juice of one lemon

Preheat oven to 350°. Combine rhubarb, brown sugar, zest and lemon juice in a medium baking dish or ovenproof skillet.

Roast until rhubarb is very tender and juices are syrupy, about 45 minutes. Check about halfway through cooking; if the top looks overly dry, stir the rhubarb mixture and return to the oven.

Remove the dish from the oven and allow to cool. The juices will retreat and thicken as the mixture cools. At this point you have two options: place the butter in a jar(s) and refrigerate or you can puree it until completely smooth before moving to jar(s) and refrigerating.

This delicious condiment is amazingly versatile! You can serve it with toasted bread for breakfast or as a topping for cheesecake or ice cream. When mixed with some chilies, caramelized onions and ginger, it makes an amazing relish for roasted pork or chicken.

Last evening, I attended my first Atlanta Blogger Meetup at Gordon Biersch. The guest speaker was Dan Morris of Letterswithdan.com. The focus of the session was to “Build a Blog Empire Through the Power of Leverage, Repurposing and Passive Income.”

With comedic timing, Morris explained the importance of viewing your blog through an income-based lens, stating “Bloggers must be repurposing time, systematizing and measuring to grow successfully.” It takes a good use of time to optimize and monetize a blog into a business that's a thriving interest. Morris encourages bloggers to determine their target audience, build a fan base and to post every day to improve your presence in search engine indices.

After spending some time reviewing keywords, updating meta tags and investigating a multitude of SEO options to improve our blog’s authority and page rank, I came to the realization that this could become a full-time job in and of itself. So in considering this dilemma, I had an epiphany: “It’s the content, stupid.”

Before relating the reasoning behind this slogan, however, I am recommending a contemplative snack. My new favorite treat is a pan-toasted croissant served with honey butter and a hot cortado.

Honey Butter
1 pound butter, softened (but not melted)
1/4 cups honey
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Place the butter into a mixing bowl and beat at low speed, using the whisk attachment to whip the butter. Increase the speed to medium and add the honey, cinnamon, and vanilla extract and beat for about 5 minutes until well combined. Remove butter from bowl and spoon onto parchment paper or plastic wrap. If you can wait for it to chill, roll the butter into a log and refrigerate for 2 hours. If not place the butter in the freezer for a few minutes while you toast the croissants.

Pan-Toasted Croissants
Take a good croissant and slice it in half lengthwise (along the equator). Place the croissant halves, cut-side down on a preheated, lightly buttered griddle or heavy skillet and toast over medium-high heat. When the cut-side is toasted to a light golden brown, turn the croissants over and toast the second side.

Now, with snack in hand, I hope you can follow my thought process. First of all, anyone who thinks that blogging is a lucrative occupation is sadly mistaken. Yes, there are a few success stories, but the vast majority of bloggers barely recover their costs (time, internet fees, ingredients, etc.) Food bloggers typically include a recipe with their posts which requires additional time to prepare the dish(es) and take photos.

We started this blog to chronicle our cooking adventures both for ourselves (so we could remember what we did to make a certain dish) and to record recipes and techniques for our two sons. As friends and family learned of the project, the blog snowballed into the site you see today. And while we have received some good publicity and even a few awards, the blog has always been about cooking good food (for Dom) and the catharsis of writing about it (for me).

During Bill Clinton’s 1992 presidential campaign, his campaign manager, James Carville coined the phrase, “It’s the economy, stupid” to keep campaign workers focused on the issue. For our purposes, I have revised the saying to “it’s the content, stupid.” So while Dan Morris advocates the concept that “just because you started your blog as a hobby, doesn't mean you can't make it your full time profession," we have adopted the reverse philosophy. Rather than sacrifice our lifestyle for the blog, the blog must sacrifice for us to maintain our lifestyle. Thus dear readers, we hope you will be content with our blog just the way it is as we continue cooking, eating, enjoying each other’s company and occasionally writing about it.

What is it about strawberries that makes you break into a smile? Is it the vibrant red, heart-shaped fruit or the bright green jester-like cap with its fingers that seem to wave merrily at you?  So perhaps you can envision the ear-to-ear grin when my adorable neighbors arrived at my door carrying a brimming bucket of freshly-picked strawberries!

After gorging myself on the juicy little devils, I decided that the only thing better than fresh strawberries might be strawberry gelato. The word gelato means ‘frozen‘ in Italian, which does little to describe the ultra-smooth texture of the frozen dairy decadence that is authentic Italian gelato.

Gelato usually has less fat than traditional ice cream because the ratio of milk to cream is much higher than in ice cream which results in less taste and texture of fat to coat your palate. Also, traditionally there are no eggs in the gelato base, so the gelato highlights the flavor of what’s been added like chocolate, coffee, or in this case: strawberries.

3 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 cups milk
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon vodka

In a heavy saucepan, add milk and stir in sugar and cornstarch and whisk to make a thin slurry. Heat over medium heat until the gelato base thickens and begins to bubble, about 5 minutes. Pour into bowl and stir in heavy cream. Place the bowl over ice and allow to cool, stirring occasionally. The mix will continue to thicken as it cools.

Place cleaned strawberries in a food processor and pulse to desired consistency. We like to actually see some the fruit in our gelato, so we leave the fruit a bit chunky.  Add the fruit, lemon juice and vodka to the gelato base and chill for 3-4 hours.

The berry picker taste test...

Add the chilled gelato mixture to an ice cream maker and process according to manufacturer's instructions for the machine. When the gelato is well frozen, transfer it to a container. Cover; freeze until firm, at least 3 hours and up to 2 days. The vodka should prevent the gelato from freezing completely solid, making it easier to serve.

Because the storage freezers used for holding gelato in Italy tend to be kept a few degrees warmer (up to 10 degrees F) than those in U.S., it is better to let the gelato sit out for a few minutes before serving. When gelato is less-cold, your mouth does not get ‘frozen’ and you can taste the flavors even better.

Photo credit: SERV International

We know you have seen the commercials with the beautiful actress who implores you to donate a dollar to feed a family for a day. If you are like us, you have always wondered how that could be possible. Enter SERV International, an Atlanta-based, non-profit organization that provides meals for impoverished nations through donations. They have created a way to nourish a person for an entire day for only 5 cents. The SERV 1 Feed 1 project distributes dehydrated meals in which one 8-ounce serving can satisfy a person's hunger for a day. To date, the project has distributed more than 5 million meals in Kenya, and over 1 million meals in the Dominican Republic.


With the summer season heating up, we thought the mix would make a wonderful vegetarian burger that could be enjoyed by kids and adults alike. Black beans are a healthy addition which improves the color and texture of the patties.

SERV Black Bean Burgers
¼ cup SERV vegetable mix (or substitute 1 cup cooked rice)
1 cup water
1 can (15-ounce) black beans, rinsed and drained
¼ cup quick-cook oats
½ medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 small green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
Coarse salt and ground pepper
2 tablespoons corn starch
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Combine SERV vegetable mix with water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and give the mix a good stir then cover and simmer over low heat for 20 or so minutes. Once tender, remove from heat and allow to cool. Once cool, drain the mixture well in a sieve, patting with a paper towel to remove excess moisture if necessary.

Heat a teaspoon of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and peppers, and reduce the heat to medium, and cook until they are translucent and softened. Add the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Drain the canned black beans, (again making sure they are drained very well) and place in a large mixing bowl.  Using a potato masher or fork, mash the black bean mixture roughly, so that some black bean chunks remain. Add drained SERV vegetable mix, quick oats, cumin, sautéed onions and peppers, and blend together. Taste and adjust flavor with salt and pepper.

Dust your hands with corn starch and divide the bean mixture into 4 balls. Flatten the balls down to form burger patties. Dust a little corn starch on each patty; not too much, just a sprinkle. (You can freeze the patties at this point in a single layer in air tight containers).

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a non-stick skillet and place 2 burger patties on the skillet. Cook for 1-2 minutes on medium-high heat on each side. Remove when a crispy golden crust forms on both sides. Add more oil to the skillet and fry up the other 2 patties. Serve the patties as you would any burger on your favorite buns with ketchup, mustard and relish.

SERV International is doing amazing things to help feed those in need. You can help by visiting http://servone.org/serv1feed1 to donate, and by spreading the word about these lifesaving meals on Google+, Facebook, and on Twitter at hashtag #5centmeal.

Sometimes the most obvious things in life are the easiest to overlook; such is the case with the family meatball recipe. When Dom was stopped in the hallway at work by a co-worker and asked where she could find the meatball recipe, it became clear that that we had not shared our procedure with our faithful followers. So, we immediately sought to remedy the situation. Thus, without further ado…

We make meatballs in large batches and freeze them. Of course, you could use the pre-cooked meatballs in a variety of other recipes, but we never do. Ours go directly from the freezer and into our weekly batch of also-made-from-scratch pomodoro. The real trick is to allow the meatballs to cook in the sauce for hours (yes, plural) to allow them to fully absorb as much moisture as absolutely possible.

Now, if you want to try heaven on a bun; plop a few juicy meatballs on a toasted hoagie roll, top them with mozzarella, broil until the cheese is bubbly and brown, and then (after wiping the drool from your chin) devour them, being careful not to burn the roof of your mouth on the gooey cheese and hot meaty goodness!

4 lbs. ground meat (a combination of ground beef and ground pork is optimal)
1 ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs, can be stale but not toasted
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup milk
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon dried basil

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. In a large mixing bowl, combine eggs and milk. Next, incorporate breadcrumbs, cheese and spices and then gently mix in ground meat. It is best to fold the ingredients together by hand resisting the urge to “squish” the mixture. Too much mixing makes the meatballs gluey and dense. The idea is to handle the meatballs as little as possible.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using a spoon, (we use a cookie scoop which looks like a small ice cream scoop) gently form uniform-sized orbs and place about 2 inches apart on the lined baking sheet. You can use your hands to shape the meatballs, but remember the more you handle them the tougher they get.

Bake for about 15-20 minutes or until just cooked through. The baking time will depend on the size of your meatballs. To quote Dom, “They should look like the moon; round and gray.” While “gray” may sound unappetizing, you do not want to over bake the meatballs since they will cook even more in the final preparation.

Allow the meatballs to cool before using. This allows the juices to retreat and be absorbed by the breadcrumbs. Then you can use them or freeze them. They will keep for up to 2 months in the freezer, but ours rarely last that long.

In the new world on digital media, there are a cacophony of e-magazines designed specifically for ipads and e-readers. With the ability to embed moving graphics, video content and zoom features, digital magazines are truly an enhanced experience. Yet, even the glitziest of widgets cannot overcome lackluster content and writing.

Imagine the surprise to find a digital magazine that is not only candy for the eyes with well-written articles spanning a diverse spectrum of topics. Choke-full of articles, deliberateLIFE magazine is focused on inspiring people to live well and make intentional choices about how they should best spend their time and money, engage in their communities, and understand global issues.

The most recent issue of deliberateLIFE is an ode to the wonderful months of summer and the great outdoors. The Perspectives section features recollections of and reflections on happy memories of summer; the Kids Corner includes a variety of activities to help students to learn to live a purpose-driven life; the Travel section gives a window into Cambodia with its rich and complex cultural history; and, the Daily Life section offers tips for being a conscientious consumer of summer produce, ideas for memorable, yard- to-table summer soirees, recipes for “cruelty-free” cocktails, and recommendations for safe, natural spring cleaning products like lemons:

• The juice from this acidic fruit cleans hard water deposits and soap scum easily. 
• To create a cleaning paste, mix lemon juice with baking soda. Use the paste to remove odors from cutting boards, and to shine copper and brass.
• Cut a lemon in half and sprinkle the top with salt. Use it to scrub dishes and plates.Lemon juice acts as a bleaching agent for removing stains as well.
• Drop used lemons and peels into the garbage disposal to clean the blades and freshen the kitchen air.

To get a sneak peek at the magazine, visit the deliberateLIFE blog. The deliberateLIFE Magazine is published six times a year and the ipad app is currently free through the iPad Newsstand. Once you have  downloaded the app, it will be visible in the iPad Newsstand and then you will see all available issues. Choose to download a single issue for $3.99 or subscribe and receive a reduced price-per-issue. Subscribers also have access to exclusive content provide throughout the year.

From the daily commute to the food you eat, you will find ideas about everyday things that you can do to live a more healthy, engaged, globally- conscious, deliberate life.

We consider ourselves very lucky to have been given the opportunity to review the new cookbook, The New Jewish Table, by Todd and Ellen Kassoff Gray of Washington, DC's Equinox Restaurant, While the internet provides us with thousands of recipes just by using a few keystrokes, it cannot replace the touch and the feel of a cookbook especially one with gorgeous pictures of the featured dishes.

Every cookbook tells a story and Todd and Ellen tell theirs in chatty, interview-style at the beginning of each recipe. Their stories and memories are peppered throughout the cookbook. The table of contents and recipes in the cookbook are organized by season and then by meal (e.g. brunch, starters, lunch, dinner, sides, desserts). Each recipe is also labeled in one of three categories: meat, diary, mixed and parve.  The ingredients are separately delineated and listed in the order they are used in the cooking instructions which are clear and easy to follow.

There are two sections at the end of the book. The first is a Holiday Menu section with menus for the four most important Jewish holidays followed by a Chef’s Appendix with recipes for spice blends, sauces and condiments as well as techniques used elsewhere in the cookbook. Many of the recipes have an endnote explaining how to make the dish parve so that it can be served with other dishes in the book.  And when it comes to cookbooks, the phrase “a picture is worth a thousand words” is most fitting.  A majority of the recipes in this cookbook also include a beautiful full-color photograph of the completed dish.

When we saw lovely, fresh petit pois in the market, we knew we would have to try the Gray’s fresh pea soup from the Spring section of their cookbook to try! The resulting soup was delicious. With the fresh green smell of spring come from the pot, it was impossible to resist skimming a small cup before allowing the mixture to chill as recommended in the recipe. Even warm, the smooth, creamy, bright green soup looked and tasted like the essence of spring. This will definitely be a repeat performance.

Early Spring Pea Soup
(recipe used with permission of St. Martin’s Press)

1/4 cup canola oil
1 medium yellow onion, minced
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 pound fresh or thawed frozen shelled English peas
6 cups vegetable stock
1 teaspoon salt
1/16 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1/2  teaspoon sugar (if needed)

For Garnish: 
2 cups fresh or thawed frozen shelled peas
1/4 cup creme fraiche or sour cream (optional)
4 mint leaves, very finely and neatly diced

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the onions and garlic. Sauté until the onions are shining and garlic is aromatic; about 3 minutes. Add the peas, vegetable stock, salt, and pepper. If your peas are sweet you shouldn't need the sugar, but sugar will boost the flavor, so if you need it, stir it in now. Bring the soup to simmering, lower the heat to low and let the soup simmer until the peas are tender; about 20 minutes.

Working in batches, transfer the soup to the container of a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process to a smooth puree. Pour the soup through a fine mesh strainer into a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate until chilled and you are ready to serve it; at least 60 minutes (you can alternatively place the bowl over another bowl filled with ice). Taste the soup and add more salt or pepper to taste.

Blanch the peas for the garnish. If using fresh peas, bring a medium pot of water to boiling over high heat, add the peas, and cook until crisp-tender; 2 to 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking.

To serve, ladle the soup into individual bowls and top each with some blanched peas, 1 tablespoon of creme fraiche, and a sprinkling of mint.

To Make it Parve: Omit the sour cream or creme fraiche garnish to make the dish dairy-free.

This cookbook would be a wonderful addition to any cook’s bookshelf. The recipes which are versatile and diverse will appeal to any home cook not just those of the Jewish faith. While we are not Jewish, we found the book wonderfully informative and laid out in such a way as to make it easy to understand and prepare a meal for Jewish friends and family members. This 352-page hardcover cookbook is available from the publisher, St. Martin’s Press as well as Amazon and Barnes & Noble.

Each year, we all do our best to spoil our Moms on the day named just for her. We lay plans to let her sleep late and make her breakfast in bed. This year, why not go a step further and plan a brunch for the whole family replete with breakfast and lunchtime favorites accompanied by cocktails to compliment the offerings. If you’re new to planning a brunch and would like to make your own this weekend, here are a few ideas that will make your brunch a treat worthy of Mom.

Eggs:
Eggs are the staple to brunch menus. Whatever you decide to cook, always include an egg recipe as either the main dish or a side dish. However, making eggs doesn't necessarily mean you have to be satisfied with the common scramble. Be creative! There are several ways you can dress up your eggs.

Herbs are a marvelous addition to accentuate their flavor. Parsley, cilantro, dill and tarragon are all good choices. One of the most common mistakes one can make when making eggs is to overcook them. Depending on how you’re making them, the perfect eggs will be creamy and buttery to the touch. A technique you can use for the perfect eggs are to turn off the burner as soon as they appear slightly under cooked  They’ll finish cooking as they rest on the pan. Another trick for better eggs is to add about a tablespoon of water into your egg mixture. This will make them airy and fluffy. Other egg dishes that lend themselves to a brunch buffet are frittatas, eggs benedict, omelets or even a south of the border classic like huevos rancheros!

Meats and Veggies:
Meat always makes an appearance at brunch. Europeans commonly serve platters of cold cuts and cheeses as part of their typical breakfast buffets.Whether it’s bacon, sausage, chorizo, pancetta or ham, meat is always a binding element that brings veggies (like red and green pepper, tomatoes, potatoes, mushrooms, or onions) and eggs together. Meat and veggie skillets are popular side dishes for brunch, providing a savory and salty contrast.

Crepes, Waffles and Pancakes:
Another component for a successful brunch is to have breads and pastries that will contrast the hearty taste and texture of eggs. Most common brunch ideas for batter-made foods are crepes, waffles or pancakes.

Waffles and pancakes are probably the easiest to make, nevertheless the bad execution of said dishes could make them chewy or tough. A tip to keep batter from becoming dense in the pan or oven is to hold back from over mixing. The more you beat the batter the denser they’ll be, leaving you with thicker but tough pan-fried dough. Crepes are a different story because they have an unequal proportion of wet and dry ingredients, it’s essential to mix your batter well. This will make for a soft, buttery crepe.

Fruit:
There is nothing more spectacular than fresh seasonal fruit to complement any brunch table! Strawberries, blueberries, a selection of melon and even pineapple are delicious on their own or served atop your pancakes, crepes and waffles.

Beverages:
There are a variety of drinks that will both quench your thirst and enhance your brunch menu. Freshly squeezed orange or grapefruit juice are popular favorites. These also make delicious mixers for brunch cocktails such as mimosas or grapefruit sparklers. Bloody Marys are another common brunch beverage and our personal favorite is a Creole version:

4 oz. tomato juice
1 ½ oz. vodka
1 tablespoon Creole mustard (we use Zatarain’s)
1 teaspoon prepared horseradish
1 dash of Worcestershire sauce
Hot sauce to taste (we prefer Louisiana brand)
Lime wedge for garnish
Pickled okra (or any of your favorite vegetable condiments)

Combine all liquid ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Pour into your favorite glass and add lime wedge and pickled okra.

Location/Décor:
Add to the ambiance of the occasion with a fancy table setting; arrange an outdoor buffet in the garden, picnic on the beach or even a more rustic environment like a barn or stable. What could be more fun than an afternoon of horse-back riding with all the gear after brunch?

By planning ahead and getting a little creative, you can start Mom’s day with a treat she will never forget!

The traditional Mexican version of this ancient beverage is made with rice. It is always spiced with cinnamon sweetened and often flavored with lime. This drink can be found in most Mexican restaurants and is often sold by street vendors in Mexico  City. There are many tasty variations to the recipe, but they all come back to the same basic premise of a creamy, yet light drink that goes down very smoothly.  It has very pleasant cinnamon and vanilla overtones and a sweetness that is subtle and not overdone. Since it does not contain dairy, it will not spoil as easily as milk. In fact, rice milk is made using the same process as horchata with the omission of cinnamon.

Rembrandt's "Boaz Casting Barley into Ruth's Veil," c. 1645

The word "horchata" derives from the Latin word  hordeum which means "barley." At one time, barley was the world’s most prestige grain; the further back you go in history, the more important it was. Barley bread was eaten by Plato and Aristotle in ancient Greece and was the bread of the Bible. It would also have been familiar to Confucius in 500BC. The original horchata was the most venerable of grain drinks: barley water. Over time indigenous chufa (also known as tigernut) was substituted for the barley in Egypt.

The drink made its way to Spain. When the Spaniards brought the drink to Mexico, the natives used locally grown rice to make the drink. Horchata is sometimes made with melon or squash seeds as well. The rice, nuts or seeds are ground and mixed with water to make a milky-looking agua de fresca.

Horchata is quite well-suited for extinguishing the occasional fires that are ignited by fiery Mexican food.  It is especially complimentary to all types of savory dishes including a local favorite of fresh, hot tacos cloaked in spicy pineapple salsa.

1 cup long grain white rice, rinsed
4 cups water
2 cinnamon sticks
1/3 cup sugar (or more to taste)
1 1/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon, plus more for garnish

Wash and drain rice. Combine rice with cinnamon sticks in water and soak overnight in the refrigerator.

After the rice has soaked for a minimum of 8 hours, preferably overnight, discard the cinnamon sticks and pour rice, half of the soaking water, sugar and vanilla into a blender while reserving the unused soaking water. Blend rice on low for 3-5 minutes until well blended and finely ground. Pour the blended rice mixture through fine mesh sieve two times, and then through cheesecloth one more time to remove all gritty bits of rice.

Pour the strained rice water mixture into a pitcher adding the reserved soaking water and stir well to combine. Add more sugar if needed, to taste. To serve, pour over ice and garnish with ground cinnamon and a lime wedge, if desired.

This post was originally written for inclusion on the Virginia-Highland Civic Association website on May 1, 2013:

Tucked away behind some of the neighborhood’s more raucous eating establishments is one of Virginia-Highland’s hidden jewels, Pozolé Restaurant. This family friendly eatery is named after a Mexican specialty made with hominy (alkali-treated corn) and is served on special occasions. “Party soup” seems to be a good depiction of this restaurant’s kitschy, rustic décor and affable staff.

The bold cantina-style offerings range from plates of Chiliqules to al la carte salsas, tacos and quesadillas which truly provide something for every appetite. A kids’ menu illustrated by a staff member features kid-friendly eats and activities which, along with craft paper on the tables and plenty of crayons, keep fidgety youngsters (and parents) occupied. Their freshly prepared pineapple salsa is just one example of the mild yet flavorful fare that can be enjoyed by kids as well as adults. They gladly shared the recipe with us:

Pineapple Salsa
2 cups grilled pineapple, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, de-seeded and finely diced
½ bunch cilantro, finely chopped
1 red onion, finely diced
½ teaspoon salt
¼  teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ cup pineapple or lime juice

Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix together well. Refrigerate until ready to serve with crispy tortilla chips or as a compliment to grilled fish, chicken or rice.

Pozolé is well known for their sociable, artsy staff headed by Manager Susannah Aaron who is fiercely protective of her younger patrons. She censors both the jukebox and the large television in the main dining area during family time. As the evening wears on, however, the clientele and the atmosphere mature as dating couples and late night roisterers enjoy Latin noshes and margaritas at the Tequila bar.

One true statement: My mom can bake. Cakes, cookies, bread and especially pie. Awesome pie. As mentioned on numerous occasions, Dom is a bonafide pie fanatic and connoisseur making him distinctly qualified to dub Lou (my mom) the “Queen of Pies.” Much to Dom’s chagrin, I did not inherit Lou’s innate talent for fruit-filled crusts. Knowing this, my mom has always had pie on hand when we visit and one in hand when she came to our home; blackberry-raspberry in June, blueberry in July, apple in September, pumpkin in October, lemon meringue in January, and strawberry-rhubarb in April.

With Lou now living in Iowa, Dom’s pie consumption has fallen dramatically. With uber-fresh rhubarb and just-picked strawberries it was imperative to work in a pie tutorial (and subsequent “testing”) while she was in-town. So following the queen’s meticulous instructions, I duplicated her tart-sweet creation which apparently passed muster as it was wolfed down in record time. (Sonny, who has inherited Dom’s penchant for pie, had a slice for breakfast lunch and after dinner!)

1 cup sugar
1/3 cup flour
3 cups rhubarb, chopped
3 cups strawberries, cleaned and macerated (or frozen in syrup)
1 deep dish pie crust

If you are using fresh strawberries these will need to be hulled, cut and macerated (with an additional cup of sugar.)

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Rinse and trim the rhubarb stalks and chop into ¼-inch pieces like you would celery. Place the chopped rhubarb in a large mixing bowl and add sugar and flour and toss to fully coat. Add the macerated strawberries and toss gently to combine.

Pour rhubarb-strawberries mixture into the deep dish pie shell. Top with a lattice crust and crimp the edges together. Put pie on a foil-lined baking sheet to prevent drips and place in the preheated oven. Bake for one hour. Remove pie from oven and allow to cool before serving. The juices will retreat and thicken as the pie cools.

This post was originally written for inclusion on the Virginia-Highland Civic Association website on April 17, 2013:

Spring in Georgia brings with it the highly anticipated Vidalia® Onion season. Named as the official State vegetable in 1990, the Vidalia onion is a sweet onion of hybridized Granex parentage (or other similar varieties). Only onions grown in a production area defined by Georgia and U.S. law can be labeled as “Vidalia Onions.” Due to the low amount of sulfur in the soil, the onions grown in the region near Vidalia, Georgia are unusually sweet and mild. Vidalia® onions are hand-planted and hand-harvested each year, with sweet, juicy bulbs revered by chefs and cooks throughout the world. They are treasured not only for their size and their mild, sweet taste, but for their nutritive merits. They are low in calories, low-fat, low-cholesterol, sodium-free and packed with Vitamin C.

To celebrate the opening of Vidalia® Onion season, a four-day festival featuring a parade, arts & crafts, Miss Vidalia Onion Pageant and fireworks is held each year. The Vidalia® Onion Festival has been recognized by MSNBC as one of the “Five Don’t-Miss Festivals Across the U.S.” For the second year, the festival also included the Golden Onion Chef Competition.

The Golden Onion is a professional cooking competition in which 12 challengers display their skills and creativity. The 2013 roster included competing chefs from the mountains to the islands, from fine dining to casual eateries represent a cross-section of Georgia restaurants and cuisine. They were given one hour to prepare and present dishes featuring Vidalia® onions. Chef Daniel Chance of nearby Campagnolo Restaurant + Bar whose winning dish was a Scallop-Stuffed Vidalia® Onion with Onion Puree and Pickled Onion topped with fresh raw Vidalia® Onion, says “the flavor of the Vidalia® Onion is one of the few that can stand on its own or elevate any dish.”

For those Georgia natives who prefer to enjoy the illustrious state vegetable in its least assuming glory, fried onion rings are the way to go. These crispy-on-the-outside, sweet-on-the-inside rings have an extra crunchy coating.

Buttermilk Onion Rings
2 large Vidalia® onions (or other sweet onions)
1 quart peanut oil
2 cups buttermilk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon cayenne powder (optional)

Peel the onions and slice them crosswise into 1-inch-thick slices. Separate each slice into individual rings, and remove the slick thin membrane covering the inside of each ring.

In a heavy skillet over medium heat, or in a tabletop deep fryer, heat the oil to 375 degrees F and then line a baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.

Divide the flour between 2 large baking dishes and season each dish liberally with salt and pepper and 1/4 teaspoon of the cayenne (if using). Place the buttermilk in a large baking dish and season liberally with salt and pepper as well.

Work in batches, dredging some of the onion rings in one of the flour dishes and tap off the excess. Next, dip the rings in the buttermilk allowing the excess to drain off, and then dredge the rings in the second dish of flour, making sure to coat the rings evenly. Tap off any excess and transfer the batch of coated rings to the hot oil.

Fry the rings, turning once or twice, until golden brown and tender, about 4 minutes. Remove with a wire skimmer and drain on paper towel-lined baking sheet. Season immediately with salt. Repeat until all of the rings have been cooked. Serve hot with your favorite sauce or dip like Thai sweet chili sauce, horseradish cream, steak sauce or just plain ketchup.

For those of you die hard onion fanatics, make plans to travel to Vidalia this weekend for the 36th Annual Vidalia Onion Festival. Saturday’s events include an Air Show, Arts & Crafts Fair, Carnival, Onion eating contest, and the Charlie Daniels Band in Concert. For details, directions or tickets, visit http://www.vidaliaonionfestival.com.

Variety is indeed the spice of life. However, having spices in your cabinet that you will never use is a waste of money and precious space. Pretty sets with fancy containers are nice, but will you ever really use caraway, chervil or mace? It is best to start out with herbs and spices that you are familiar with and will use. These are the herbs and spices* we find indispensable:

Allspice - Mainly used in Caribbean jerk seasoning, these dried berries have a flavor said to be a combination of nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves.
Basil - You'll quickly learn how well basil and tomato go together. It works wonders in Italian dishes and on pizza, so give it a try.
Black Pepper - The world's most popular spice is the dried berry which grows in grapelike clusters on a climbing vine native to India and Indonesia. It enhances almost every dish by stimulating the appetite and giving food a gentle warmth.
Cayenne or Crushed Red Pepper - A very useful and versatile spice, you can add it to just about anything (even hot cocoa) for a nice kick of heat.
Cinnamon – Made by grinding the inner bark of a tropical evergreen tree, cinnamon has a warm, sweet flavor and works well in baked goods and drinks, but cinnamon also works wonders in stews and sauces.
Cumin - adds an earthy and warming feeling to food and is a common addition to adobos, garam masala, curry powder, and bahaarat.
Garlic powder - Garlic is both tasty and good for you. Of course, fresh is best, but when it is not available, add garlic powder instead for
Ginger – The ground dried rhizome of the ginger plant lends a spicy zing to gingerbread, cookies, cakes, ginger ale and ginger beer. Ginger is a common ingredient in Asian and Indian cuisines.
Nutmeg - It's delicately warm, sweet flavor to milk or cream-based dishes, fruits and vegetables like potatoes, spinach and squash, and baked goods such as pumpkin pie.
Oregano - Known as the “pizza herb,” oregano combines well with spicy foods, which makes it popular in southern Italy where it has been used for centuries to flavor roasted meats and fish.
Paprika - The flavor range of paprika ranges from mild to pungent and hot and its color from bright orange-red to blood-red. Made by grinding aromatic sweet red pepper pods, it is a great seasoning and garnish for savory dishes and the main ingredient in goulash and paprikash dishes.
Rosemary - Highly aromatic with hints of both lemon and pine, rosemary is fabulous for marinades and grilled meats (especially lamb and pork) and makes a beautiful garnish for autumnal vegetables and soups.
Seasoning blends - It is a good idea to keep one or two of your favorite spice mixes on hand. They are a good quick way to season foods just the way you like them. Cajun spices, Steak seasoning, an Italian blend or any of the other numerous options can be used to season steaks before grilling, sprinkle on vegetables and soups or even to flavor popcorn.
Thyme - Often used in French cuisine, thyme’s pungent, slightly lemony flavor is great in vegetables, poultry and fish dishes, soups and cream sauces.

*Please notice that this list does not contain salt, which while important to cooking, is a mineral. Read more about this essential seasoning in our post SALT: The Flavor of Necessity.

Spices are susceptible to grain weevils and pantry moths the same as flour, pasta, rice and beans. The best way to avoid an infestation is to buy herbs and spices from a reputable purveyor and to check them regularly. If you are using them frequently, you will have the opportunity to check them often. We purchase our herbs and spices in bulk at DeKalb Farmer’s Market where they are quite inexpensive and fresh. Because old spices lose their flavor and potency, once each year we remove all the spices from the cabinet to discard and replace any that are more than 6 months old. This is also a good time to evaluate which spices we actually use and those that shouldn't be restocked.

There are some herbs that are best used fresh; where the dried version just does not compare. These include parsley, chives, cilantro and mint. Luckily, these are all wonderfully easy to grow. We have tucked herb plants into the landscaping of our yard, but even the most space-deprived cook can grow a small pot or window box of fresh ingredients.


Seasoning Suggestions:
This list is meant only to suggest possible combinations, not to exhaust them. Do not lose sight of the fact that good ingredients taste good before seasoning. Spices are meant to enhance the flavor of a dish, not to overpower it. That said, the right spice in the right dish is a lovely thing.

Asparagus: dry mustard, thyme
Avocado: cilantro, cayenne, garlic
Beans, dried: cumin, oregano, parsley
Beef: allspice, cayenne, cloves, garlic, onion, oregano, paprika, parsley, rosemary, or thyme
Broccoli: dill, garlic, oregano,
Brussels sprouts: dill, mustard seed
Cabbage: caraway seeds, oregano
Carrots: allspice, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, dill, ginger, mint, parsley and thyme
Cauliflower: dill, paprika, parsley, sesame seeds and tarragon
Cheese: caraway, cayenne, parsley, thyme, nutmeg
Corn: cayenne, cumin, garlic, paprika
Eggplant: basil, chili, garlic, oregano, thyme
Eggs: basil, cayenne, chives, cilantro, curry, dill, oregano, parsley, tarragon, thyme,
Fish: basil, dill, paprika, parsley, rosemary, tarragon, thyme,
Green Beans: dill, nutmeg, parsley, sesame seeds
Lamb: bay leaf, curry, garlic, mint, mustard seed, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme
Lima beans: mint, parsley, sage
Meats: allspice, chili, curry, garlic
Mushrooms: basil, garlic, oregano, thyme
Onions: caraway, cloves, curry, nutmeg, tarragon, thyme
Peas: basil, cloves, mint, parsley, thyme
Pork: cloves, garlic, mustard seed, parsley, oregano, rosemary, thyme
Potatoes: dill, parsley, rosemary
Poultry: anise, basil, cayenne, cilantro, curry, garlic, ginger, parsley, rosemary
Rice: anise, chives, cilantro, curry, garlic, parsley, saffron, sesame seeds
Sweet potatoes/yams: allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, thyme
Stews: allspice, basil, bay leaf, cloves, garlic, parsley, oregano, thyme
Tomatoes: basil, cayenne, cilantro, dill, garlic, nutmeg, oregano, parsley, tarragon, and thyme
Turnips: allspice, caraway seeds
Zucchini or Summer Squash: basil, cilantro, dill, garlic, tarragon, thyme

Homework: Familiarize yourself with different spices by going through your spice rack at home and smelling and tasting the contents. A good way to test the flavor of spices is to try them on plain rice. Start paying attention to the spices served on your favorite menu items when dining out.